Is this how FDR and Churchill felt on the eve of the landing of ships at Normandy, I pondered, as I woke up early on a cold Friday morning ready to go to work. (An opening line like that lends gravitas and a good travelogue needs Gravitas). T&I had laid out the plans for this trip a month back and finally the big day was here. We would be ready to launch our plans that evening. The weather of course would be key to our carefully laid out plans.
I checked the weather forecast. Heavy snow was predicted beginning that late afternoon. I was a little wary of the weather but T even more so. Those years in Boston had done nothing to diminish her sense of foreboding when it came to driving in the snow. I,on the other had, with my years of driving experience in the borderlands of the US and Canada , where “lake effect” snow was as common as the sighting of a flannel shirt and a pair ot jeans and workman boots, was unfazed by the weather.
It would be all right. After all chance always favors the prepared mind and no mind came more prepared than that of T. Wasnt it Churchill who said, “A Captain well rested, look no further than his crew to know why”. (At this point, in case Churchill did not say it, which in all likelihood, he did not, I would like to claim copyright over that.) I had slept well, secure in the knowledge that she would be there to remind me of any forgotten eye glasses, keys or wallet.
I headed out to work early, with a plan to head back early, before the heavy snow set in. A short trip to the gym, , given the days of unbridled consumption of food and beverages that lay ahead, was prudent. By the time I left the gym, the snow as predicted by the weatherman was falling in copious amounts. My car struggled to gain traction on the slippery snow. For a brief moment it slid backwards and I pondered my prudence , but thankfully my trusty steed of 5 years found its footing and I soon found my way home to T.
And thus it was, a few hours later, we were ready to begin our trip
The plan was to park ourselves at an Inn (The Holiday Inn for those who demand more precision) the night before the launch of the aircraft, which was scheduled to depart early the following morning at 6:40 AM.
We stopped briefly at a restaurant called the “Dabbawala” in a small town in New Jersey for dinner. Our hostess informed us over a meal of excessively salty dal and slightly rubbery rumali roti that it was this very same restaurant that were the caterers to transcontinental flights of the carrier Jet Airways. I inadvertently let is slip that I had flown by the very same airline through Brussesl and that I loved Belgian chocolate, where upon she took it upon herself to interrogate me on my preferences in chocolates of that variety, declaring indirectly that she herself was a connosieur, having lived in that city for 8 years.
She was a talkative one that hostess, she was. But her interrogations were to no avail. I remained tightlipped secure in my ignorance of branded chocolates,. T pointed out later that we could have saved ourselves an inquisition if I had been a little less hasty in professing a preference for Belgian chocolates and perhaps a little more critical of the amount of salt in the lentils.
By and by ,we made our way to the Inn and called it a night happy in the knowledge that tomorrow, 8 days of unadulterated pleasure lay before us in the form of rocky mountains, cactus strewn deserts, red baked earth.
Sedona, Arizona was the first phase of the plan.
Day 1 – SaturdayT&I left the hotel at 5:20 AM the airport just a couple of miles away. By the time we parked our car and made it to the Aiport checkin lines, it was 5:40 AM. Our flight was at 6:40 AM and the line to the checking counter at Newark airport resembled the lines outside the Tirumala Temple in Tirupathi.
But we were lucky. A kindly Continental employee, took pity on us and cut through the lines and checked in our baggage for us. With the riff raff darshan at Tirupathi behind us, we only had to get past the special darshan line a.k.a Security
Finally past the security check, we rushed to our gates, only to find out that the flight had been overbooked and that we had to settle for the next available flight on Monday. I pleaded my case to the airline guy behind the counter to no avail. And there it was ”The best laid plans of men and mice”…We were stranded. Until T decided that this was the time to pull out the ultimate weapon. Her big doe eyes slowly teared up. Every mans Kryptonite. And just like that we had tickets for the 4:00PM flight. And we had been upgraded to first class too and had also got a $900 refund. Amazing what a little saline water can do.
Given that the weather was incredibly lousy and a lot of flights were being cancelled, we spent the rest of the day at the airport trying to get on any earlier flight that we could find.
We tried to get ourselves on the noon flight to Phoenix. And things looked promising. There seemed to be a lot of no shows. We were asked to line up on the walkway leading to the airplane door and were informed that as the names were called out, we would be let in.. And shuffling slowly forward we soon found ourselves at the threshold of the airplane door.
The airhostess told us to take a couple of steps back while she shut the door on us. The plane was full.
%&*$&$*#&$*% doesn’t describe our feelings at that point.
T went into overdrive. I watched in awe as she called up her company travel desk, find out alternate routings and then proceeded to bombard the airport personnel with questions. The answer was always the same.
“Sorry Maam. All flights are overbooked”.
But she would not give up. Once she found out that our 4:00 PM flight was delayed, she switched from overdrive to hyperdrive. I was exhausted by this time. Mainly from watching her . So I left her to her wanderings and decided to curl up with a good book. (Oops. I meant I decided I would take care of the luggage.) T would return from her wanderings from time to time, sit for a while, rant against the injustices of the airline system, muse on the fickleness of the weather gods and then jump up and run away as soon as a new idea struck her. I continued my role as luggage guardian and sounding board until it was finally time to board the flight….(Actually I couldn’t move even if I wanted to. I was completely engrossed by a book “White Tiger”).
By the time our flight took off, it was 8:30 PM, meaning we would only land at Phoenix at Midnight on Sunday. Sedona was alteast 2 hours away. But we decided to drive all the way. Our car had XM radio with 250 channels and so I spent almost my entire journey twiddling through the 250 channels unable to settle on any one. (As T likes to point out, women flip channels to see what is on TV, men flip channels to see what else is there.)
As we approached Sedona, the only lights anywhere in the vicinity were the lights from the headlamps of our car. And so just for the fun of it, I decided to switch off the lights to see how dark it got as I drove.
It was an interesting experience. I realized that switching off the headlamps while driving at 80mph in the middle of the desert at 2AM in the morning, while thrilling for me, made T hyperventilate.
We finally reached Las Pasada, a Bed and Breakfast inn we had been booked into at 3:00 AM on Sunday Morning.
Tired but happy at having made it, we hit the sack.
Day 2 – SundayThe next morning, we awoke at around 9 AM to find ourselves in the midst of gorgeous red mountains dotting the landscape…(Do mountains dot landscapes?).
Breakfast was between 8:00 to 9:30 AM and so we hustled our way to the dining room, where we were greeted by our host Carlos. After a hearty breakfast, we decided to hike up Cathedral rock, a popular hike which promised spectacular views. It was a gorgeous day for a hike, around 18 C, sunshine and a perfect day for a hike.
So we went to a nearby factory outlet and spent an hour shopping there for the perfect clothes for the hike in perfect weather.
We reached the start of the hiking trail, only to find that there were no parking spots available. Unsure about what to do, we drove around aimlessly for a little while until the parking gods…(Hindus are supposed to have over 3Million gods…I am sure a parking god is in there somewhere…) took pity and opened up a parking spot. But not before testing our faith by jamming the front wheel of the car, between two rocks.
Now a little bit about Cathedral rock. Sedona has certain designated areas called vortex fields which apparently are caused by strong forcefields emanating from the earth or in this case red rocks. So it is supposed to be a thingy that you can use to balance your ying and yang (or male or female side) so you are suitably effeminate in your temperament if you are a guy and suitably butch if you are a girl. (So after reading that explanation you feel this urge to google Sedona +Vortex, go right ahead. I will understand.)
It’s a fairly steep climb and so T accompanied upto a point beyond which her yang took over and so being the yin I decided to venture a little further ahead to check out the sights. All in all it was a fun outing. On our way back, we did our bit to help the local ethnic populace by purchasing some fancy Indian ornament from a genuine Indian. (I will let you work that one out. )
After that it was time to explore the town of Sedona and find a good place to have lunch at. As fate would have it, we picked the 2nd worst Mexican restaurant in the United States. The top contender for that award is on the way to New Hampshire if anybody is interested, and yes we have had the privilege of dining there as well.
For some strange reason, perhaps the result of the vortex fields and its share of kooky people it no doubt attracts, Sedona has a bunch of art galleries, filled with exotic art and glass figurines that you could buy for a few thousand dollars. Actually when I say “you”, I probably mean somebody else, as “you” would have to be either kooky or a multi millionaire to buy them and I don’t know any multi millionaires (and I don’t want to call you kooky). And if by any chance you ARE a millionaire and you ARE reading this blog, how about patronizing my art huh?
So we toddled in and out of a few galleries before deciding that it was time to head home. The Mexican lunch had so killed our appetites that T&I literally didn’t have the stomach to eat out and so we went grocery shopping, picked up a couple of DVD’s and headed back to a simple meal of sandwiches and fruits.
Day 3:This was the day we had picked out a standard touristy thing to do and so we decided to do a Jeep tour into the redrocks. The weather forecast was for a gloomy morning with some strong showers in the afternoon.
So we headed out to do a quick “B” in the “B&B”.
The tour was set for 11:00 AM and so we carefully prepared ourselves for a long day out.
T packed our sandwiches.
T packed our Snacks
I packed our Rain Coats
I packed our Ipods
I packed our 3 layers of clothing
I packed our gloves
T took our keys from the table
We took our wallets and purses
T took our reading and sun glasses from the bag
I took the camera out of the bag and placed it on the table
We wore our hiking shoes
And soon we were ready to leave.
And we headed out and reached the Pink Jeep tour, registered our presence, patiently listened to the tour guide walk us through……and just as it was our turn to get into the jeep, it dawned on me……
Have you figured it out yet? No? See, there you go. It could happen to anybody. I had left the camera on the table. But as Shah Rukh Khan famously put it in DDLJ with that slightly constipated look that he has patented
“Bade Bade deshon main choti choti baatein hoti rahti hain, hain na?” (Roughly translates to “Small small things happen in big big country).
So our trip got pushed out by an hour as we headed back to the hotel, picked our camera up and came back , registered our presence, patiently listened to the tour guide walk us through his lines.…And finally we got assigned our pink jeep and hopped on to it along with an Italian couple from …you will never guess it….Italy.
Our driver/tour guide was an old lady probably in her early 60’s. She was earnest, cheerful, talkative, full of information and unfortunately incredibly boring. I don’t know what it is, but I think my tour guide God (yes…its one of those 3 million I mentioned before) has just decided that she (why not?) doesn’t like me. It doesn’t matter where I am, New York, London, Boston, I always get a tour guide that brings out the psychopath in me. I listen for the first few minutes and then get dreamy eyed thinking about different ways of slitting their throat.
So when I refused to provide her any encouragement and when she realized that the other couple’s English was only slightly better than her own Italian., her only hope in that jeep was T.
And T did not fail her. She was magnificent through the entire 2 hours of the jeep tour. I watched in admiration as she singlehandedly motivated the lady .
Old lady: Old mouldy joke. (think of any one you know..she was full of them)
T: “Tee hee hee”
Old lady: “That old rock is around 2 million years old”.
T: “Wooowwwww”
Old lady: People hike here in winter..
T: Really??? That’s ammmaaazzinngg.
Old lady: Would you like to drive over that steep rock?
T: Noooooo. I could neevvverr do that.
So on this went on for an hour
At our first stop, I offered T the option of tossing our guide out over one of the steeper rocks. But T, she of the gentle heart, refused to entertain my request.
Notwithstanding our guide, the jeep trip was quite a lot of fun otherwise as we climbed up rocky roads and rocks. I would recommend it to anybody.
So after the tour, we decided to head out to Jerome, which apparently had an old abandoned mining town from the 1920’s that had been preserved as a tourist attraction.
We finally got to a town that looked like the ghost town mentioned in the tourist pamphlets. I walked into a candy store and enquired cheerfully of a really old lady whether this was the famous ghost town of Jerome. She looked offended by the question.
I found out from her that this was a proper town and that I was in a proper store and the ghost town was a couple of miles away. I got back into the car feeling suitably sheepish and drove up to the ghost town.
It was full of old things from the 20’s. Old rusted carts, machinery and cars and trucks. There was even an old sawmill that was operational and a really fat mule called pedro. The cause of Pedro’s obesity lay in his feedbag. Every person who came to visit the town, felt obliged to give it something to eat from the feedbag. I did my bit to add to Pedro’s medical bills.
Other points of interest included a functioning restroom, which T&I used. (For the record, in case anyone is interested, there haven’t been any significant developments on the restroom front since the 20’s.) The novelty quickly wore off and we decided to head back to town for dinner.
We dined heartily at the Wildflower bread company café, to a simple meal of soup, sandwich and pasta of roughly 8000 calories each. (They had HUGE portions).
Our best tasting meal on our trip to date and thus ended Day 3.
Day 4:
The weather forecast for the day provided for a sunny morning heading into rain and snow showers in the afternoon. (Weather in America is a huge topic of conversation as anybody who lives in the US well knows.)
So we decided that we would have a nice relaxing hike in the morning and end the day early as we needed to head out to Vegas the following morning.
We spent the first two hours of our hike driving up and down the road trying to figure out where the trail head for the hike we had marked out was. Finally, after calling the park rangers we were informed that the trail had been closed down. He gave us an alternative hike to a place called Doe mountain.
It was around a 30 minute hike up the mountain to some magnificent views of the Arizona mountain ranges. After 30 minutes on the mountain top, we decided to head back down to lunch.
Years of being a vegetarian in the US has convinced me that the best possible cuisine for a vegetarian is Indian. It is the only kind of cuisine designed around vegetarians. So my stomach always longs for Indian food on these trips.
And having noticed an Indian restaurant on our way to Doe mountain, I decided that we should give it a try . Now most Indian restaurants, especially in remote areas in the US are almost invariably North Indian and almost always serve the most unhealthy kind of food you can find in the Northern Hemisphere. But my faith in the God of Indian Cuisine in the US has been of the purest kind. Pray long enough and hopefully he will provide you a miracle. This has been fortified by a selective memory that quickly forgets any facts that may have the power of questioning the basis of it.
At the end of our meal at the restaurant, my faith severly shaken, I resolved to subsist on Oatmeal and cereal for the rest of the year. (Only a few days away.)
By this time the storm clouds had gathered, ominously portending snow. We had only one item left on our list. A scenic drive through Oak Creek Canyon.
We drove approximately a half hour in the opposite direction, while T prayed to the GPS gods to provide us a satellite signal.
(This involves taking the GPS, smushing your nose and GPS against the windscreen, while uttering chants to Ra, the Sun God of the Ancient Egyptians. If that doesn’t work you get out of the car, thrust up your arms, GPS between your palms, and turn round and round, peering into the sky in the hope that somehow it will help you spot the signal .)
Our prayers answered eventually, we turned around and started driving the other way. By this time, T was suffering the effects of our long hike and heavy lunch. (the latter more likely) and managed to sleep most of the way. The drive was largely uneventful. Just slushy roads with some nice views.
We came back to the hotel and packed our bags for the next stage of our journey.
The Grand Canyon and Las Vegas.